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Thursday, May 30, 2013

No More Chicken Feet!!!

No More Chicken Feet!!!


China is a very strange place, in a lot of ways.  Buildings are built to be aesthetically pleasing, with a lot less thought going into practicality.  There is a giant theatre not too far from my house.  It contains an actual theatre for the arts that is on the top level, 4 imax style 3D movie theatres, and, from what I can see, about 4 levels of garden space.  It’s quite possibly the most wasted space I’ve ever seen in a building that costs millions of dollars.  Of course, it’s built by the government and run by the government, and I highly doubt that it’s profitable, it can’t be.  However, it is absolutely beautiful.  The windows are nearly impossible to clean (guys tie a rope to a chair, then wander down from the top, swinging precariously while cleaning them.  I haven’t seen anyone die yet, but I’ve only seen it cleaned once so far), but the way that the rain cascades off of the beautifully rounded sides is a true thing of beauty.  The Ping-An bank building is currently being constructed.  There’s a competition between Shenzhen, Shanghai, and Beijing to build the tallest building in the world.  A friend of mine knows the architect for the bank building, and they don’t know how high they’re going to build yet.  They’ve reinforced everything to support 200 storeys, and are pretty sure it’s going to be between 130 and 180, which is a considerable range not to know.  It’s all a big secret as are the other two buildings being built.  I think that all that really matters are that the 3 tallest buildings in the world will be in China.
In downtown Futian district, there are 2 beautiful gold buildings.  They were built 10 years ago, and are in dispute between the contractor and the owner.  The buildings are finished but vacant as the insanity goes on and on, I’m not sure that the original argument still applies, but, they’re about 70 stories of beautiful gold plated glass and sides, and also completely vacant.  There’s a fountain in front that is immaculately kept, and on constantly, but, there’s a fence around it all, and nobody can get in until the dispute is solved.  Personally, I think they’ll be taken down to be replaced before that happens.
Shenzhen was built about 30 years ago.  Some of the buildings are out of date, so, the government buys up the old buildings, the tenants find new places to live, and rips those down, to put up beautiful new structures.  There’s always construction going on here, it never, ever, ever stops.  There’s about an 80 storey building being built 2 blocks from me, I’m hoping that they’re not going to decide that it needs to go higher, it towers over everything as far as the eye can see, and will be part of the mall, probably with office and residential space at the top.  Personally, I don’t know why you’d want to live up there, it seems to me that the building sway in the wind would be about 1 meter on windy days, and I think that could be a little frightening.  The Ping-An Bank building is supposed to have a 2-5 meter sway when it’s finished, (depending on how high it goes).  All I care about is being above the level of the rats and bug infestation, and being below the point where the building sways in the wind.  I don’t care if it sways, just don’t let me be aware of it, and all things are good.

It’s been a bit of an interesting week.  I suspect that it’s more interesting because I’m having trouble sleeping with the combination of the heat, the humidity, and the air quality.  I usually wake up around 6 am coughing, turn off the ac, then wake up at 7, and turn the ac back on.  Sometimes I wonder if I will figure out a better method to sleep until 8 or so.  I rarely get to sleep before midnight, it’s usually 2 am.

I find a world without time zones to be very strange as well.  At midnight, the moon is not directly above me, but more at the point in the sky that would indicate about 9 or 10 am.  The sun rises typically at 9.  There are parts of china where the sun rises at 6 pm, and goes down at 6 am.  I think it may make business more easy, and everyone just thinks that this is how it is, the only ones who find it strange are those of us from other places.

I was very interested in a particular woman that I know.  We’ve been friends now for a bit over 2 months and she is the funniest, most entertaining, intelligent, and beautiful woman that I’ve known in a long time.  (My father would take this time to ask me if that holds true in comparison with my mother…I hate those questions).  I haven’t been able to get a straight answer on whether she’d like to date or not, because she’s very shy, and it’s hard to approach her with those questions.  I finally asked her how her family would feel about her dating a foreigner.  She gave the answer to a mutual friend of ours, probably out of embarrassment.  Her family told her that she would embarrass the entire family, and that they only want her to marry a Chinese man.  She is forbidden to even date a foreigner.  I guess we will just be friends, which is still okay with me, as I genuinely enjoy spending time with her and hanging out.

A couple of days ago, I sat down with a kid who just moved to Shenzhen, most recently from Thailand.  He’s a British expat, and “kid” is probably the wrong word to use, as he is 32.  At the same time, he’s the most naïve person that I’ve met in China to date.  Sarah told me what our friend said in front of this guy, Christopher, and after Sarah had gone home, he asked me what I was going to do with Phoebe.  I said that we would just be friends and that’s it.  The rest of the conversation went as follows:

“So you must not really love her then!”

               “What are you talking about?  We’ve known each other for a couple of months, we’re very good friends, but that’s all we can ever be.”

“If you loved her, you’d be with her, and make things okay!”

               “So, your solution is to date a girl outside of her parents’ wishes, causing them to lose face in their small village, becoming outcasts and the laughing stock.  You think it would be far better to have a girl disowned, just so that she could be with you?  In addition to that, she’s the oldest, and is thus in charge of making sure that her brother and her parents have money, so she sends home the greater portion of her paycheck every month.  So, if I’m in love, I should completely destroy the lives of 4 people, but I would be happy.  What kind of jerk do you think I am?”

My friend DJ caught part of this and snickered to himself as he walked by, afterwards he came by and said that I was exactly right in how I was handling things (he’s lived here for 14 years and knows how it works), and wondered how someone who is 32, has traveled the world, could have such a naïve outlook on things.  Christopher has decided that “Asians are Asians”, and since he knows so much about Thailand, it will all be the same in China.  I informed him that that was probably not a good avenue to take as the Chinese are completely different from the Koreans, and I doubt that the Chinese have much in common with Thai people.  He doesn’t believe me, I just hope that when he learns his lesson that it’s not a painful or destructive one.

When I was 12 or 13, my father got me my first job working in his automotive shop.  He said something on my way to work for the first time that has really stuck with me over the years.  He mentioned that at such a young age, I didn’t have a lot of life experiences that other’s had not had, and that I should spend the greater part of my time listening to what the mechanics said and learn from them.  I can tell you that that may not be a great idea with mechanics, but it has served me very well over the years.  I’ve spent my last 5 months or so here listening to other people, asking questions, learning about China from people who have been all over and have the same thirst for knowledge that I have.  I’ve noticed, though, that many who come here for the first time like to talk about how strenuous and crazy their past experiences have been, and how it has prepared them for China unlike others.  I’ve also noticed that those expats here who are in it for the long haul, always kick back, smile, nod, and enjoy the stories, but never comment on anything, since they know that nothing that they add will be taken to heart.  Oddly enough, listening to those who don’t talk as much and asking them the right questions has led me to greater knowledge of how China works for the foreigner than any other avenue has. 

You actually can’t ask Chinese people for rules, regulations, expectations, or ways to get around this country.  You can ask for help booking tickets, or whatever, but navigating the country from a foreigner standpoint is vastly different.  There’s always an alternative way to do things when the language, written and spoken, is so foreign and alien that your mind just can’t wrap around and decipher it without a whole lot of study.

My friend, DJ, took me for Dim Sum this morning.  (Dim Sum by the way, is not Cantonese nor Mandarin, I think it’s actually a British phrase to describe what they think they heard when they were told what the morning meal was called.  I can’t for the life of me remember what it is in Chinese, but saying “Dim Sum” gets you absolutely nowhere.)  There are no pictures on the menu.  There is no pinyin, there is no English (in the good restaurants, it’s all Chinese, and you get a pencil.)  So, you can really do one of three things:

  1. 1.       Take someone with you who speaks Chinese
  2. 2.      Take a picture of the menu from a time before when you had someone who spoke Chinese with you.
  3. 3.      Take a waitress with you around to other tables, point at what you want, and name a quantity, visit as many tables as you like to get what you want on the table.



I hate chicken feet.  I now have 2 friends who love it.  I think that they’re clinically insane, I can’t stand them.  I can deal with chicken cartilage, (it’s crunchy and chickeny, and is probably good for your teeth…like a bone is good for a dog’s teeth), I can deal with veggies and vegetable like things out of the see that nobody knows the name for (how do they order them?  I think they ask for something green with salt, that lives underwater, who knows though?)  Chicken feet will always be a mystery for me. 

Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Use my fingers... They’re more accurate

Use my fingers... They’re more accurate


I probably have 3 or 4 blogs that I have yet to send off.  Sometimes they end up being “stream of consciousness” as I have difficulty getting a nice flow and transitions, or sometimes I think that I should wait until I get more information to properly do a subject justice.  The reality of all of this is that I don’t get one of these off every week, and I feel a little bit guilty for not doing so.  Additionally, I wonder if I have said something already or if it was said in a phone call to someone that I called, or if I should go back and read all that I have written.  I think I should do that at some point regardless, and correct some of the observations that I made that were incorrect, or add information that I have not yet put down, that has not yet come to mind.

I find social networking in China to be completely fascinating.  The social networking is far and above what is available in the rest of the world.  I think people here want facebook because it is blocked, and due to the fact that it gives you outside access to other friends abroad.  The Chinese sites are available in the rest of the world, but I don’t think that anyone knows about them.  If you’re interested, go find the wechat app for your phone.  If you decide to register on it, make sure you add me by my ID “BlairCDN”.  This app allows you to find all within a 2 km radius of wherever you are, or to chat to your friends real time, and share pictures, thoughts, or whatever, otherwise known as “Moments”.  What I find most interesting, is what is regularly shared by Chinese users of social networking (everyone is on either wechat, tencent weibo, or QQ, most are on all of them.), and that is pictures of food.

30 years ago, China was starving.  Even now, when everyone has food or access to food, they still share their meals regularly.  Additionally, one of the most polite phrases to use when meeting up with your friends is, “Ni chi fan le ma?”  This means, literally, “have you eaten yet?”  When I meet up with my friends, for something other than dinner, it’s one of the first things I say, and is asked back.

Eg:

“Ni hao Elaine!”
               “Ni hao Blair!”
“Ni zenme yang?”
               “Hao de, ni ne?”
“Hao de.  Ni chi fan le ma?”
               “Hao chi.  Ni ne?”
“Hen hao chi.  Liange tuzi pao le!”

Or, in english:

“hello Elaine”
               “hello blair”
“how are you?”
               “good, and you?”
“good.  Have you eaten?”
               “ate well, and you?”
“ate very well.  My two rabbits escaped!”

Actually, this conversation drives my Chinese friends crazy.  It’s polite, and all that kind of stuff, but my final observation about my rabbits is based on a similarity on words that Chinese people rarely pick up on.  “duzi” is belly “bao le” is full.  Very close in pronunciation is “tuzi” for rabbit and “pao le” for escaped.  It’s actually a common mispronunciation in Guangdong province, and tends to make people laugh, but only when I mime two rabbits hopping away.  Most seem to think I have a bit of a twisted sense of humour.  I figure, though, that if all of their villages have a crazy language of their own, I should be able to make up one as well, I call it Nanshanhua (nanshan local tongue… the district that I live in.)

Here are the 3 blogs that I have yet to post:

1.



In some ways I find that Chinese people are very strange to me.  In a country where it is definitely overcrowded and there are people everywhere at all times of the day, you would expect that everyone would have many friends.  The reality, though, is that Chinese people tend to have very few friends.  If they are forced into a situation where they have to meet people whether in social situations or in a business environment, their first focus tends to be on making that person into their friend.  It seems odd to me that that becomes their first focus in any sort of setting, but that it’s a very low priority in the rest of their lives.  I wonder if that’s why the social networking here is so popular, perhaps they just don’t have a clue as to where to go to meet friends.  Friends that were made in university graduate and move all over the country, whether that’s back home, or to a city where they are more likely to be a success, but they inevitably seem to lose contact, and since most Chinese people don’t travel outside of wherever they live and their hometown, their chances to remain in contact become very slim, and those friendships dissolve.  Social networking like “Wechat” (in Chinese we-xing pronounced weshing) or “QQ” allows people to talk via the internet on every smart phone without incurring long distance charges, and maintain those networks of friends, however, I still don’t see a lot of that.  Many people wish that they could get on facebook, but I think that that’s mainly because they’re denied the opportunity, than because it fills a need here.  The social networks here are a lot better done than anything that I used in the usa or Canada.

I’ve been talking to a lot of friends here about why we’re here, and what our purpose is.  I’ve come to the conclusion that I’m here to learn the language and the culture, but, there is no possible way for me to blend in.  (I’m 6’0”, white, and bigger than most people here….there’s no way to blend in with my surroundings, my eyes are a bit rounder than most here too, among other major physical differences).  I have friends here who are black, or blonde, or a variety of other physical features that makes their blending in absolutely impossible as well.  The odd fact is, though, that once you start to feel comfortable, and you can start to talk and get your point across, you seem to lose sight of the fact that you stick out like a sore thumb.  It’s hard to keep that fact in mind, and I try to remind myself of it often.  Many do not, and seem perplexed at the reactions that they get for doing things in a Chinese way.  I think that this is a mistake made by foreigners.  The actual reason for learning the language and culture is to help you in your business dealings.  If that is the case, it’s mainly to put your client or supplier off balance, or make him more comfortable, in order to get a better deal, whatever the situation calls for.  The Chinese have been doing this to us for years, and actually, I believe that most of the world behaves in this way, those who don’t are not as successful as they could be.  Some may call this “manipulation”, but I don’t think that that’s true either, I think it’s just proper use of the resources and options available to you. 

Every new person I meet mentions the clothing the little children wear here.  There’s always a slit down the bum, so, you see diapers (rarely) or bare-bottomed kids running around all of the time.  When the kid needs to urinate or whatever, the parents either take him/her to the bushes, or if those aren’t available, has them squat down and urinate wherever they may be standing.  It’s because of this fact that I highly recommend people avoid all puddles of water in China.  If it hasn’t been raining, chances are, that’s not water you’re walking through.

I’m constantly amazed at how China seems to be an assault on your senses.  While you’re walking down the street, you may smell fresh bread, fresh bbq, very dead fish, open sewer, or any number of things just within a block radius.  You will hear horns honking excessively, people yelling at each other, and random people yelling “Hello!  How are you?” at you.  I’ve learned to tune a lot of that out, although the honking still gets to me at times.  You will see fish tanks with a variety of fish and sea creatures living in them and swimming around, various types of birds skinned and hanging by the neck – all parts still attached even if cooked, children running around with their bums sticking out of their pants, stores selling the most odd assortment of items, people handing you fliers only some of which are intelligible without a grasp on Chinese characters, and people making concentrated efforts to completely ignore each other, yet they make no effort whatsoever to avoid staring at you.

Yesterday, I was hanging out with a buddy enjoying a hot dog and watching the crazy intense rain storm.  He stopped talking and his eyes got wide, but I didn’t clue in to the fact that he was watching a girl so focused on staring straight ahead that she ran dead into the sign that was chest high on her because she was focused on points unknown.  People here walk around with blinders on.  There is no peripheral vision, and anything below neck level is not seen, anything that is seen but not understood doesn’t exist either.  If they’re on their smartphone, nothing outside of that exists, and they will walk into any number of things, most likely, though, they’ll run into you.  I find it somewhat interesting that Chinese people face their head forward and do not move from whatever path they’re on.  Ex-pats tend to actually pay attention to their surroundings though, and can be seen scrambling out of the way instead of running into other people.  Most of us think that the Chinese have a sense that the rest of us don’t that prevents them from constantly running into each other at any given time, but that doesn’t work on foreigners as that happens all of the time.
 
2.

3-19-2013

There are times when immersion wears on you a bit.  Everyone speaks Chinese, and everyone has their own way of doing things.  You’re hanging out with Chinese people all day, you’re attempting (and failing) to communicate constantly, and while you do see a marked improvement, it’s still a long ways from being able to have a real conversation.  You also get a bunch of wing-nuts speaking English at you (most of the time, the wrong English), and you wonder if it’s worth it to correct them, or just develop tunnel vision and ignore it all.

That reminds me…tunnel vision…. It’s a skill, develop it, you need it in this country.  The ability to look straight in front of you and ignore the moron screaming in your ear is extremely important.  Beggars, random salespeople, and really weird people will gravitate towards you.  If you look at any of these people, you will encourage them.  In some cases it’s somewhat amusing, in other cases it’s extremely frustrating.  I was walking down a never-ending mall the other day to meet a friend, and I had some kid walk up next to me, and just walk next to me, about 3 inches off my hip.  I don’t like that, I usually think “pick-pocket”.  Every time I stopped, he stopped, I’d turn to him and he wouldn’t meet my eyes… I wish I could say that that’s the first time or last time I’ll have my own little personal shadow, but it won’t be, and I’m not sure I’ll ever figure it out until I can turn and say, “What’s your deal?  Are you trying to rob me?”  I don’t think he was a pickpocket, I also don’t have the first clue as to what he was doing.  The same thing happens to my friends every now and then.  They’ve had it happen so often, they don’t react other than to put their hand on their wallet.

I took Mei to see a movie tonight.  She told me to go get the tickets, it was an international theater, so there’s some English movies and some Chinese movies.  I picked the one that started 10 minutes from when I got there.  Turned out to be the new die hard movie, and it wasn’t bad, although I think the previous ones were better.  It was in English and Russian, with Chinese subtitles.  I missed a good half of the movie because the Russian was translated into Chinese, which wasn’t overly helpful.

3-20-2013

I was talking to my teacher today, and asked her about the weird guy 3 inches off my hip.  She said that most people here would assume pickpocket, but most of those work in groups of 3 and 4.  She suggested that there was an alternate explanation, one that never occurred to me but makes a lot of sense.  In china, the definition of personal space is a lot different.  I was on the train last night at rush hour, we were packed in, I had one hand on a rail, and the other on my wallet, and a hundred Chinese people pressing in on me, thank goodness I don’t get claustrophobic.  Because of this, when walking, people don’t consider, “hey, I’m walking too close to this person, I should move away.  He may have just been walking, and curious about random foreigner in his area.  That makes sense to me.
I have to say, I love the one on one lessons and am glad that I changed.  It’s nice to be able to ask questions every day, both about the language that I hear and don’t quite get, as well as the cultural things that I don’t quite understand.  I was at a park, or at least a park-ish place, the other day.  There was a mural that told a story of ancient warriors in this area becoming victors by putting everyone else down.  Based on the armour, weapons, and other things, it looked to be about 1,000 years ago.  The Chinese parts of it were identical to how I read the story, then, I found the English story, and It made no sense whatsoever.  The English portion was about Deng Xiaopeng, the founder of Shenzhen, and it was supposedly his story.  The problem is that Deng Xiaopeng consolidated all the villages here in 1980, and created Shenzhen megacity, he wasn’t alive a thousand or two thousand years ago.  The English translation had nothing to do with anything in the park, nor the surrounding area.  There was also a tree supposedly planted by him, that had been there for 150 years, another impossibility.  I wonder how many other “historical” monuments are completely wrong in English, and only make sense in Chinese.

It was interesting today discussing culture in China, however.  I’ve noticed how proud the Chinese are of their 5,000 years of history.  It’s actually 8,000 if you include Zhao, which is the country that was around for 3,000 years before China, and is why Zhao is the most popular last name in China.  Shenzhen, however, only has 30 years of history, if you don’t include the villages that were here for a thousand or two years before consolidation.  All that’s left of those villages, by the way are gates, and monuments to remind them of their history.  This is why Beijing and the other large megacities look down on Shenzhen, call them country bumpkins (or whatever it translates to, it’s not complimentary), and why those who are from or live here feel shame when it’s mentioned.  To the Chinese, their culture and their history are all important.  Many current jokes, or phrases are based on a historical known fact, and until you learn all of what they are taught in school and by their families, a foreigner will never truly understand all that goes on.  I think that you can get a good idea by reading the teaching of Confucius and other Chinese philosophers, but you’ll never get the whole.

3.

I’m convinced that I know how my death is going to come about in China.  It’s really one of two ways, either it will be in a taxi, or I will be hit by a bus whose route starts with the number 3.  I should probably explain.

It’s required by law for you to wear a seatbelt in a taxi if there is one.  The taxi drivers simplify this by taking them out for you.  If there’s a belt, there’s nothing to connect it to.  If you get in a cab and there is not a check engine light on, that generally means that the bulb has burnt out.  I have yet to be in a taxi that didn’t need new shocks, front end parts, drivetrain, tires….etc.  most need brakes as well.  I think that the steering rack is gone on every single one of them, they tend to wander a great deal and you have to jerk the steering wheel to the approximate direction that you think that the car should be going.

Yesterday, I went down to the police station to register.  I apparently need a 2-1” pictures of myself to attach to it, I’ll figure out where to get those this week, hopefully.  So, that was a bust, so, I decided to go down to my bank, and meet with my bank manager.  I caught a cab right next to the police station in Nanshan, told him I needed to go to Futian.  He determined that the best way to go would be to back up on the freeway, in rush hour against the flow of traffic, and then do a u-turn from the far right lane, across 4 other lanes of heavy traffic to get to the other side of the street.  Crazy….

There’s a couple of different types of busses here.  All of them are generally mechanically unsound as well, and generally an extremely exciting ride.  What is even more exciting is the #3?? Busses.  They are paid  to be on time.  If they are late for one stop, they don’t get paid that day.  People here don’t run red lights, you can lose your license, and I think you may go spend some quality time in the police station, 10 days or so.  So, those busses are always on time on schedule.  Doesn’t matter if you’re walking in front or not, they will honk at you, but they won’t slow down.  I recommend that if you’re crossing any intersection, you should look at the bus number before deciding whether to run across the street or not.

Everyone thinks that it’s ridiculous that China doesn’t have facebook.  There’s really no need for it here though.  The Chinese chat programs and social networking are about a thousand times better.  Tencent Weibo, QQ, and Wechat are currently the big ones.  I only use Wechat, and really enjoy the program.  It’s an app on your phone, and pinpoints all users within 2 km of where you are, as well as give you approximate distances.  Additionally, there’s a “shake your phone” option where you can find others in your area who are shaking their phone, it makes it easy to start a conversation with a woman across the room, introducing yourself in an easier way than just wandering up, which can be embarrassing to someone, and therefore a situation where someone can lose face.

I’ve talked to a lot of foreigners here who can’t seem to figure out why they are always dating women using them for their money.  When asked where they meet the girl, the answer is almost always “Coco Park”, and 99% of the time, in some bar or other.  I invariably ask if they look for women to date at home in bars, and why they think that bars here are different.  If you’re 50, going to Chinese bars, and have 21-28 year old beautiful women interested in you, why do you think that is?  The reason is always your big, fat, enormous….wallet.  Surprising?

It’s somewhat difficult to just approach a woman here, and strike up a conversation, even if you do speak Chinese, or she speaks English.  There’s too much risk of a loss of face, and approaching a woman here like that is likely to embarrass her and make her stick out to others, so, it’s to be avoided at all costs.  Wechat allows you to meet when you’ve already “gotten to know each other”, even if it’s just a 15 minute exchange across a crowded square or restaurant.

Last night, I met up with a woman off of wechat.  She does not speak any English, and my Chinese is a bit lacking, but apparently I have enough to entertain others.  Candy picked me up in her brand new Toyota Highlander and took me for a buffet dinner.  We talked as we ate, and then we hit serious language barrier.  The word for “understand” is “ming bai”, I heard “mianbao” which means bread.  So, since that seemed to be in place of a verb, I got seriously lost.  Candy called over the waitress and told her to stand at the table to be our translator for the rest of dinner, which was amusing.  After dinner, and even today, Candy and I still say “Mianbao?” to each other.

The Chinese love to play word games and math games.  I think a lot of it is to do with how to learn something better.  I also think that this is how the Chinese tend to be able to memorize so well.

The hardest thing, I think, by far is for people to understand that the mindset of people here is 1000% different than North America.  We call it “Planet China”.  I know that many people like to think that deep down we’re all the same, and should be given the same rights and freedoms that North Americans enjoy, and that deep down at the basic level, we’re all the same, but, that’s just purely not true.  The biggest difference, I think, is in how people view the world from their perspective.  I tend to believe that Americans, Canadians, and “westerners” in general tend to live in their own little bubble.  They look around them and form their opinions in their own little world, while surveying their surroundings.  An example of this would be driving.  Most English speaking countries practice defensive driving, you look where you are going, pay attention to other people who are actively trying to kill you, aka defensive driving.  In china, people live in a tunnel.  There is nothing beside or behind them, they have their blinders on, and they are focused on what is ahead of them.  Their driving style is interesting because of this.  The last cab I was in was driving in a lane with a car right beside us, he didn’t speed up, he didn’t slow down, he drove straight ahead while honking to gain possession of the lane.  I couldn’t drive here, my road rage would be absolutely out of this world.  They don’t get mad here though, they just honk and honk and honk and honk….it never stops, nor does it actually accomplish anything.

Monday, May 20, 2013

Friendship Qualification: Chef


Friendship Qualification:  Chef


I think I may have accidentally stumbled on the secret to happiness in China.  Apparently, all you need is a good kitchen and a dining room that seats a maximum of 8 people.  Most of my friends have very small kitchens, so, those who love to cook, a trained French chef for example, don’t really have anywhere to do that which makes them happiest.  By volunteering my place for a few friends and the opportunity to cook, not only do I get a great meal and any leftovers, but we also bargain so that they have to do all of the dishes as well.  I think that I have never had a kitchen with so many utensils, pots, pans, etc.  I’m really not sure what to do with them all, but I don’t think that I really need to find out.  I have quite a few friends who now owe me dinner (bet money if you want to, I’d rather bet food…depends on where your priorities lay), so, I should have at least 1 fantastic, home cooked meal twice a week or so.  I highly recommend it.

American Thomas cooked a meal a couple of days ago that was fantastic.  We had pork loin, garlic mashed potatoes and asparagus and breadfruit.  Before we could cook though, we had to go shopping in Carrefour.  I realized at this point that I didn’t have anything in my kitchen for cooking, so, we needed to go get some pots, and plates, etc.  we spent about an hour getting everything in Carrefour, then needed to walk the 4 blocks home.  What is normally done, in this situation, is that you talk to customer service, and they will send someone with you to help you get everything home, then they bring the carts back.  We walked up to the counter, and the girl laughed at us then ignored us.  We took this to mean that we were free to take the carts home, with her blessing.  So, we started walking home.  Half a block from Carrefour, a Chinese lady ran up and started yelling.  She didn’t speak any English, so we went with that, saying, in English, we don’t speak Chinese, we don’t understand you.  She chased us for a couple of blocks while yelling into her phone.

Half a block from my apartment, some other employees from Carrefour showed up.  They surrounded our carts, and I think we would have been in a bit of trouble if Thomas hadn’t decided at this point to get loud.  Very, very, very, very loud.  Thomas started yelling as loud as he good.  There is never anywhere you can be without a pile of people around.  Within a couple of minutes, we were surrounded by a crowd of at least 100 curious people, and those who just wanted to watch the spectacle.  Thomas was still yelling fluently, and I had a hard time supporting him as I was trying to keep from laughing.  (NOTE:  never, ever, ever speak anything but English in these situations, they will happen to you, regardless of how law abiding you may be.)
Finally, a guy ran up and said that he spoke English.  This guy started mediating, and he said that the manager offered to let us go if we gave him a 300 RMB deposit for the carts.  I said that that was absolutely fine as long as he gave me a receipt.  He said that he didn’t have any receipts, so I asked him how he was going to guarantee that I get my money back.  He wandered away to talk on the radio for a while.  Finally, we agreed to walk to the corner so that we could point out to everyone where we lived.  While we walked up, the translator apologized to us, mentioning that he knows that we could have done this easily in America, and that China is different.  The funny thing about that, is that I’m almost positive that the entire crazy episode would have gotten us arrested at home for a variety of reasons.

Finally, we had two employees and the translator help us get the shopping carts up to my apartment, unloaded, then they walked them back.  I still think that it was a highly successful shopping trip, much easier than it could have been.  I don’t think that I need to repeat the experience though.
I’ve actually had a fantastic week!  Started out with a great home cooked meal, then I had a pseudo breakthrough at school.  I can talk, very, very, very slowly to people now, and get my point across to a very simple degree.  I love it when things click, even if it takes a while for that first click.  I think in another couple of months I should be doing very well.  My understanding has come way up, and I’m getting a real feel for things, which is quite nice.

Tonight was a little more than strange.  My French chef friend and I went to look at watches.  French Thomas showed me what to look for, and how to spot poor replicas.  We spent about 4 hours going through watches, perhaps 1 in 20 passed inspection.  Out of the 100 or so watches we looked at we narrowed it down to 5.  It was amazing to me that the rolex’s are very, very poor in relation to other high end watches.  Thomas explained that to me as well, it’s the truth in real shops as well.  Rolex is considered to be a crappy version of a high end watch, and people who don’t know much about watches regard Rolex as the epitome of greatness. 

I’m not sure that I agree with that, I am sure that I loved the other watches that we looked at.  I’m currently sporting a Ulysse Nardin and bought a Panaria as well as a Rolex which I’ve already sold at a profit.  These “fakes”, or “Chinese Versions” are identical to the originals, down to weight, movement, glass, everything.  I’m more than happy to explain the whole process to anyone who wants an education, and, my friend is happy to help anyone else as well.
While wandering through in search of watches, we also found a ton of very, very good tailors.  If you bring a couple of pictures of what you want, we can pick the fabric, get everything custom measured to fit you, and whether you want a designer dress, or you want a custom Qi Pao, or an Armani suit, it can be made for you.  It was fascinating.  We also found fake golf clubs for 1300 RMB for an entire set of whatever you want… Mizuno, Callaway, Ping, Taylor Made... you name it.

After wandering around looking at random tailors, watches, and everything else, Thomas gave me a list of ingredients to pick up for the evening meal that he was going to cook.  I finally arrived back in the Nanshan district from the Luohu district where we were shopping at 10 pm.  (the farthest part of Luohu, right on the border with Hong Kong.  It’s also where the train station is to go to Guangzhou and other cities in China).  We went to Carrefour to pick up the ingredients and got there just as it was closing.  We actually managed to find everything except for the shrimp, and were the last people through the check out counter.  Our friend, Phoebe, stopped them from going home so that we could check out.  French Thomas seemed to think it was imperative that we have some sort of seafood, squid or shrimp for his meal, so, at 11 pm, we went in search.  We tried the Grand View Hotel and found a tank full of shrimp, we tried to convince them to let us fish their tank and pay them for the shrimp.  We thought about stealing them, and leaving money and decided that nothing good would come from that train of thought.  So, we walked to the 5 star Kempinsky hotel down the street.  We asked for a plate of shrimp, uncooked from the kitchen, and they wouldn’t do it.  We argued for a while before we gave up.  Finally, we were walking past a coffee shop, and noticed that they had shrimp on the menu, so we went in to try to convince them to sell us their shrimp.

White Elephant Coffee bargained back and forth, and we finally convinced them to sell us a bag of their frozen shrimp.  Instead of just guessing what the bag was worth, they determined that they should take them out one at a time, and count them to come up with a price.  It was a bit time consuming.  We finally got home at midnight, and F. Thomas started to cook.  (It’s a bit confusing with two Thomas’s in the house, both of whom love to cook.  I tend to alternate calling them different things, so, I’m going to go with F for French and A for American.  It’s apparently less racist than going with White and Black, which is how the Chinese differentiate between them.)  Finally, at 1 am, F. Thomas started to cook, having thawed out the meat, and obtained other ingredients from our friend Charlie’s apartment.

It’s 4 am, the food is finally done.  Time to eat, I’ll write a bit later.

We finally finished dinner at 5 am.  I walked Phoebe down to take a taxi home, came up and went to bed, while the others sat and talked.  I don’t think that the French ever just “have dinner” together, it’s an all day event.  Apparently, everyone went home at about 8 am, about an hour before I got up for the day.  I told French Thomas that next time we start at 4 or 5, because I just can’t do that anymore.  The food was absolutely fantastic though.  He cooked the lamb in a type of cheese sauce, and the spaghetti was cooked in a homemade carbonara sauce with shrimp.  The food was absolutely delicious, and as a thank you for allowing him to use the kitchen and cook for us, as well as obtaining the ingredients, he made extra spaghetti and made a tomato sauce out of the cherry tomatoes that one of my guests had thoughtfully brought with her (Phoebe). 

It’s 2:15 pm on Sunday, and Phoebe is in the kitchen cooking it up for lunch for the two of us.  We are waiting for the a yi to finish cleaning the apartment so we can go down to check out the custom tailors who make Qi Pao in Luohu district.  She’s going to go through the fabrics and find something suitable to wear in the swampy, hot environment that Shenzhen is quickly becoming.  Right now, it’s about 110% humidity and only about 31ºC, in the summer, it hits 40-45ºC and 120-150% humidity.  I’m not sure what that will be like, but as of right now, as soon as I go outside, I begin to sweat, and that continues until I find an air conditioner.  It’s a bit interesting with my apartment since it’s sealed.  With the a.c. on and the doors closed, it’s dry and quite nice.  As soon as I walk outside, my glasses fog up, and the ground is a bit slick.  It’s best to take your time going anywhere right now so you don’t slip and die on the floors and stones and tiles that make up most of the walkways that we use.  I still walk around 2-5 km every day, as do most Chinese people.

I think that the excessive walking accounts for the fact that most people will rush an escalator and avoid the stairs at all costs, even if it takes an extra 10 minutes.

I think I’d better get this off, and try to write some of my latest observations down later this week.


Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Absolute Freedom, No Human Rights


Absolute Freedom, No Human Rights


It’s funny, I get sent a lot of articles by many different people, and I’m seriously starting to wonder what’s going on at home.  The USA is concerned with Huawei possibly purchasing Sprint/Nextel, and upset at the Chinese connection.  What I don’t understand is why the government should have any say whatsoever in who purchases a business.  If Americans are upset about it, they have the option of not being customers of Sprint, and changing service providers.  Why in the world are we giving the government the say in who we can sell our companies to?  Allowing the government to justify this because of “human rights violations in China” is ridiculous as well.  The USA does not have any say in how China runs it’s government or of the “human rights violations” or anything else.  I don’t understand why they think that they can police this.

Some of my friends here and I like this phrase to describe China:  “Absolute freedom, no human rights”.  It’s hard to understand until you live here or spend some length of time here.  Yes, there are no human rights in China, to a certain degree.  As a foreigner in China, you have human rights, of a sort.  Many of the official police here have been to the USA to go to school or to learn English, or whatever.  As such, they have an understanding of basic human rights.  They do not agree with them, but they understand them.  If you get into any sort of problem with the police in China, the official police, (the security guards and community police don’t count, just tell them to go away and be on your way, just like everyone else does.  One of my friends who owns a business here recommends that you only use two words when talking to them, I’m sure you can come up with under 5 words to replace the obscenity with, if you’re so inclined.  I recommend “shut up, go away”, although they sometimes don’t understand this as well as they do the other 2 words.), as a foreigner you have the right to know what’s going on around you.  Whether you do or you do not speak Chinese, you DO NOT SPEAK CHINESE.  So, the police will get the specialists in who operate in your city.  These are the ones who have all been to America, and have trained to deal with foreigners.  Most of the time, your problem will go away.  If you’ve done something wrong, that wouldn’t be covered by your human rights or civil liberties or whatever, expect to get into a pile of trouble, usually ending up either kicked out of the country, or spending some quality time in a Chinese jail.  Chances are, if you get either of these sentences, you very much deserve it.

I’ve tried to write and tried to write for the past week or two, but quite honestly, my life has settled into a routine, and there isn’t a lot that is notable going on.  Rest assured, I will write when something interesting happens, or when I find out something new and think that I can send it out.  Sometimes, that’s just not the case, and you have to keep some things to yourself, not knowing if you can post them anywhere.  Other times, it’s just something you keep for yourself to give yourself advantages in business later.

I have come up with some major questions about China, but I don’t want to post them until I find out the answers.  I also don’t know if they’re sensitive subjects.  A lot of the time here, you find out when you’ve broken a law, after you broke the law.  They’re not really posted anywhere, and there’s no way to find out until someone gets in trouble.  I was talking to a friend DJ about this, and he said that he’s just accepted this, and that he sees it all of the time.  Whenever he finds out something new, he emails all of his friends and acquaintances, to keep them up to date.  If, for example, someone decides that every single currency note should always be passed out with the government face up, and you give it to someone face down, you’ll get yelled at.  Oddly enough, the Chinese seem to know what’s going on at any given time, I think it’s all word of mouth, but I really have no idea, maybe it’s on QQ or some social network that I don’t really understand how to get the news on.  Or maybe it’s one of the 50 random text messages that I get every week in Chinese, I used to translate these, but I’ve become bored with it.

I’ve been helping a friend of mine, to some degree, with his sourcing business.  He’s in the middle of doing quotes right now.  This is absolute insanity.  Most of the people he’s dealing with are ultra-wealthy and have just gotten into the production market.  So, his quotes are all over the map.  You expect, when purchasing anything in China, to have to do some bargaining, but the way that the other side is doing business is absolutely insane.  For example, for the component list that he’s given out, he’s had quotes ranging from 200,000 RMB to 700,000 RMB.  It seems crazy until you realize that these people can’t see the difference between bargaining for an item that’s worth 150 RMB and starting out at 700 RMB, and bargaining in the 100’s of thousands of RMB.  If something is worth 200,000 RMB, you’d think that the supplier would start out a little higher, say, 250,000 RMB, or less.  These guys though, think that if they start out at 700k RMB, that you’ll bargain them down, not realizing that that money is more than bargaining for a sweater in dongmen.  It’s nuts.  My friend asked for my advice in dealing with them, because it’s such a huge difference in money, but he doesn’t want to burn the source, he just wants to let them know that they’re ridiculous.  His first instinct was to go yell them into submission, which is exactly what a Chinese sourcing agent would do. 

I’ve come to the conclusion, though, that as an American here you can do one of three things:
  1. 1.       Approach everything as an American and pay the “Skin Tax”, getting ripped off at every turn.
  2. 2.      Approach everything as a Chinese local, get good prices, but aggravate everyone in the process, probably giving yourself an ulcer in the process.  It’s stressful yelling at everyone until they do what you want them to do.
  3. 3.      I think that most tend to miss this option.  If your supplier is out to lunch at an amazing degree, why stress yourself out about it.  Go into their offices.  Sit down, let them explain their position.  Then tell them, very calmly, “I have made a mistake in thinking that you were capable of doing international business and adjusting your pricing accordingly.  I realize that you expect to bargain, but I have to talk to a lot of people, and I don’t have the time or the inclination to get into a giant war on pricing with you.  So, I am not going to do business with you at this time.  Your competitors have done enough business to know what it takes to get things done.  That said, I would like to try again with you in the future.  Please figure out how to run your business.” Or something to that effect.  You don’t burn them, you drop their face, and you guarantee that they will want to please you in the future.  You also make it dead clear that they have lost the deal, so that they don’t come back to you 2 or 3 times a week every week with a new price.  Very few people do business this way here.


I think that part of the problem is that most are using translators who are Chinese, and while they understand the Chinese culture, they don’t understand the American or foreign culture that they’re dealing with.  I don’t feel the need to educate them in this, I just think it’s important that they understand your point of view, before you turn away and deal with their competitor.  You’re going to be spending quality time in a bargaining room yelling at someone either way, but, I’d rather do that with just one or two people, not 6.

My pronunciation is getting better, I can carry on parts of a conversation now…actually, I understand 10-25% of what people say to me, and I have a very limited vocabulary that usually enables me to get my point across.  If I can’t get that done, I usually have access to a translator and Wi-Fi, although that’s just a last resort.  It’s frustrating trying to get a bad translation to get you what you want, and all phone apps are bad translations.  Additionally, assuming that everyone speaks mandarin well is a bad assumption, and is usually dead wrong in most cases.   Many also will claim not to understand you if it is to their benefit.  There’s also the problem that many Chinese people don’t believe that you speak mandarin, however poorly, so, they can’t understand you.  They stare at you, deer in the headlights, hoping that you’ll go away sometime soon so that they don’t have to figure out what’s going on. I recommend at this stage, having something you can hold up in front of your face, your hands will do, in a pinch, and then talking while they can’t see your face…most of the times, this is the solution to your communication errors.

I’m going to go try out a new Japanese Curry restaurant… they don’t speak Chinese, English, or Korean, only Japanese, so it should be fun and frustrating in a whole new way.  The menu is in Japanese and Chinese, and only has pictures, I’ve never seen anyone eat there, but, that may just be because they can’t talk to or understand the waitress.  If it’s a total bust, I’ll go to the place next door for some French pizza. 


Monday, May 6, 2013

"Hawaiian Pizza....hold the onions!"


“I’d like to order a Hawaiian pizza with no onions please?”
<insert garbled incomprehensible response>
“yes, I realize that you don’t put onions on your Hawaiian pizza.  I also realize that the last 3 that I have ordered from you have had onions on them.  I don’t want onions on the pizza, I want to make sure you don’t just assume that I need them, and that it doesn’t happen again.”
<garbled language>
“repeat my order”
“1 hawaiian pizza, medium.”
“what did you forget?”
“I don’t understand, you want a Hawaiian pizza.”
“yes, but with no onions”
“I will get supervisor.”
“hello supervisor, I want a Hawaiian pizza with no onions”
“that pizza does not come with onions.”
“yes, I realize that, but every pizza that comes from your luohu location comes with onions.  Is there some sort of crazy Chinese superstition that states that all baked bread with cheese on it must come with onions?”
“I don’t understand.”
“me neither.  Can you please get me a Hawaiian pizza with no onions? “
“let me repeat your order:  you want a hawaiian pizza, medium.”
“yes, with no onions.”

While I realize that it sounds like an Abbot and Costello skit, I find that it’s far more like a Monty Python episode. 

I’ve decided to start hanging out more with people who are not completely paranoid.  It’s been a breath of fresh air.  If you concentrate on all the crazy things that are going on around you, and the possible reasons for those crazy things, you tend to get very paranoid.  It doesn’t help that there’s cameras everywhere, what looks to be a strong military presence everywhere (truth is that the military uniforms are the cheapest and easiest clothes to get so, they may be military, they could be security guards, they may just be random guys), and that when you move, you have to register with the police, so that the government knows where you are at any given time.  The other choice to paranoia is to just believe that that’s the way that things are, accept it, move on, and ignore the bureaucracy.  The government in China is huge, they probably need something to do, whether they’re paid to watch cameras, or monitor where all of their citizens and visitors are at any given time.  Besides, it’s entirely possible that it’s for your own protection, and to make sure that you get assistance when you need it.  Perhaps they even make sure that there are policemen in your area who speak English to render assistance based on how many foreigners are in your neighborhood.  There’s always a couple of different ways to look at things, and while I prefer to remain positive, I also have to admit that I don’t have the slightest clue as to what their reasoning is, because I still think like a western American and not the Chinese, who have an entirely different history, theology, and system of values.

I was talking to someone the other day about how the thinking differs between provinces in China and the differences in attitude between the North and the South of China in particular.  Chinese are indoctrinated as to what is most important at a young age.  It’s something like:  Party, Country, Company, Family, Self.  In addition to this, the northern Chinese have, in the past, used the southern provinces as slaves, and that attitude is still ingrained in them.  If you have enough “face”, and the right attitude, you can just about make someone do anything down here, although they will hate you a great deal for doing so, they will follow direction even while doing so.  I haven’t really experienced that, so I have no idea how true it is or not.  I do know that the Chinese tend to be non-confrontational, and will do many things to avoid that possible confrontation.  I have to wonder if this is true, or if this is another case where I don’t have a good frame of reference and thus can’t understand the actual concept.

My pizza has arrived.  Turns out, that Hawaiian pizza’s are made with onions.  Who knew?  I’m still trying to figure out if I will eventually get a pizza with no onions, and how far along the road to fluency I will need to be….